Prague in Plain Sight #4 - Most Legií (Legion Bridge) and Střelecký Ostrov (Sharpshooter's Island)

I recently posted a well-received piece about Čechův most (Čech Bridge), and I wanted to continue that theme with this follow-up about Most Legií or Bridge of the Legions. In that particular post, I claimed that Čechův most was my favourite of the Prague bridges because of its unique Art Nouveau style. On reflection, I'd now like to change my mind. Although not as artistically impressive, Most Legií has even more going for it, as I think you'll discover as you read on.

Most Legií from the West bank of the Vltava

Linking Národní Třída on the east bank of the Vltava with Újezd on the west, Most legií sounds like it has a Roman connection. In fact, it derives its name from the Czechoslovakia Legion that formed during World War I. Although still part of the Austro-Hungarian empire at the onset of the war, many thousands of Czech and Slovak soldiers deserted the Austrian Army to join the Western Allies in the hope of creating an independent Czech state. The plan was largely orchestrated by T. G. Masaryk and the objective was finally achieved with the independence of Czechoslovakia in 1918. It's therefore quite fitting to be writing this piece, 100 years later, in the era of the new Czech Republic.

Looking back towards the National Theatre with the tollgate towers

The current granite bridge, formerly known as Francis I Bridge, was built between 1899 and 1901 to replace a chain bridge. It was designed by Antonín Balšánek and the chief engineer was Jiří Soukup. The bridge is a combination of neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau styles. The two towers on both sides of the bridge which were once used as toll gates. Most Legií measures 343 metres in length and 16 metres in width.

              

 

Halfway across the bridge, a staircase leads onto Střelecký Ostrov (Sharpshooter's Island) which, in the Middle Ages, was used by archers for practice and competitions. In the summer, the island becomes a hive of activity with festivals and other cultural activities taking place throughout the season. For the less active, there is elevator access down to the island on the other side of the road.

Access to Shooter's Island via the lift

In the colder months, the foliage dies away leaving wonderful views along the river towards the castle, the Charles Bridge and Smetanovo nábřeží. This is one of my favourite places in the whole of Prague. Even when it's busy and surrounded by hundreds of little peddle boats, there is a certain serenity about the place. Out of season, I find it's bleakness strangely comforting.

View across the Vltava towards Prague Castle

A terraced restaurant and bar are housed in the neo-Classical community hall on the island. In the middle of the ground floor, there is a passageway to allow flood waters to dissipate without endangering the structure of the building. However, in 2002 even that measure was inadequate as Střelecký Ostrov was completely flooded and had all but disappeared under the river waters.

In the autumn, as you cross the bridge from the Old Town towards Petrin Hill, you can see the trees running up the hill alongside the Hunger Wall in their autumn reds, olive greens and browns - just about the last vestige of colour until the following spring. It's a lovely sight, but a warning of the onset of winter.

One of my favourite places

Yup, I'm sure now - Most Legií is my favourite of Prague's bridges!

Prague in Plain Sight #3 - Čechův most (Čech Bridge)

Even someone who has never set foot in Prague is probably familiar with the Charles Bridge either from postcards or photos, but if not, from its starting role in a number of films, most famously Mission:Impossible, but also Yentl, Van Helsing and The Omen. Of course, its iconic status and fame mean it is often almost impassable except early in the morning or late at night.

Prague boasts eight other bridges across the Vltava between Florenc in the North-east of the city and Vyšehrad to the South, and of these three are more suitable crossing places for someone on a mission or in a hurry. My personal favourite is Čechův most (Čech Bridge) which provides a link between Pařížská třída and the embankment running under the Letná hill and the steps leading up to the metronome.

View across the Vltava with the metronome in the background

Čechův most was built between 1905 and 1908 based on plans by the architect Jan Koula along with designers George Soukup, Vaclav Trča, Francis Mencl. At 169m in length and 16m wide, it is the shortest bridge in Prague.

It also has a protected status as the only Art Nouveau style bridge in the Czech Republic. It is constructed on stone pillars and the arches are made of iron. The original roadway was wooden but this was replaced in 1961 because it became very slippery in the wet. There have been a number of reconstructions, including a major one in 1971/5. Between 1984 and 87 all the sculptures on the bridge were repaired.

Torchbearer on the west side of the bridge

There are a large number of wonderful ornamental features in bronze and iron including torchbearers, six-headed hydras and at each end of the bridge, a pair of 17.5m tall columns support bronze figures of Victory designed by Antonín Popp.

        

One of the Victory figures

Detail of a ram's head on the bridge

                

The bridge was named after the writer Svatopluk Čech, who died just after construction was completed. During the Nazi occupation between 1940-45, it was renamed the Mendel Bridge (after Gregor Mendel, the German geneticist).

Next time you happen to be crossing the river at that end of the city, take a moment or two to appreciate the amazing attention to detail on Čech most.